How to Refinish a Foam Warbird – Ep3 FMS RC P-51

Primer, sand, primer, sand…PAINT!

It’s time to finish off our FMS RC P-51 “Lady Alice” Transformation!  In this installment we’re doing our paint prep and painting.  Last time we covered filling in all of the oversized panel lines,  smoothing the airframe out and sealing it all in with multiple coats of polycrylic to provide a protective finish.  You can catch that post here; also, you can catch my assembly review and paint stripping methods here.  There’s much to cover, so let’s get to it!


Primer, sand, repeat…
This seems all too familiar given our filler process, but the first step in preparing this airframe for paint is to lightly sand the polycrylic’d surfaces with some 180 grit sand paper.  This is mostly to even out the finish as there are some stroke marks that do appear.  That being said, it’s not a rigorous sanding at all, just a light dusting before we apply the primer.

Once sanded, we apply the primer over the whole airframe.  When dry, using 180 grit sand paper, the primer is sanded down to the surface and this process is repeated 2-4 times.  This allows the primer to fill the smaller imperfections and even out fully over the surfaces.  This is similar to what I do to fill in the fiberglass weave of fiberglassed surfaces.  For primer I use Evercote lacquer primer which works excellent; it covers well and sands beautifully.  I was a little concerned at first using a lacquer based primer on EPO foam (main concern was the foam possibly melting), but those concerns were unfounded.  After testing it directly on the foam and polycrylic, the primer covered beautifully without any reactions whatsoever.  So, with that confirmation it was all in!


One thing to note, since the lacquer primer worked so well, this also allowed me to use my other finishing materials.  For small imperfections in the surfaces I used 3M glazing putty to fill.  There weren’t too many, but it helped in filling the imperfections that were just deep enough that the primer couldn’t fill fully.

Wet Sanding
With the primer and sand process done and the airframe smoothed and evened out to our liking, we can get it ready for paint.  This is done by wet sanding the entire airframe with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper.  The primer sprays on dull and so can cause some textural build up.  Wet sanding knocks all of that down and smooths everything out while also helping with the paint adhesion.  Note that lacquer primer is an excellent base for paint to adhere to (most everything sprays over it without issues).  So, with everything wet sanded, it’s time to paint the airframe!



Let’s Talk About Paint For a Minute
As much as I’d love to say that all paints are created equal…they’re not and usually you get what you pay for.  For my large competition scale builds, my go-to medium is nitro-cellulose lacquer paint.  It is excellent paint that sprays easily from a paint gun and goes on light and is very durable.  However, for a quick and dirty paint job like on this P-51, I always look to spray paints and plastic model paints that I can airbrush.  My preferred spray paints are the Tamiya AS spray cans.  As a plastic model builder growing up, I’ve used a lot of spray paints (sometimes, I just didn’t want to clean the airbrush…what can I say?) and this stuff is hands down THE BEST spray paint I’ve come across.  It really is that good!  It sprays on easily, covers well and self levels creating a beautifully smooth finish.  For colors not available in the AS series, I turn to Testors Model Master (MM) enamel paints.  I opt for the bottles as I can get a better finish airbrushing the colors than with the spray cans usually.  Both of these paints play well together meaning that they spray over each other and adhere very well.  This is important when doing a lot of masking.  In all cases, the paints come in a nice assortment of military Federal Standard colors which, for a scale geek like me, is a must!  I would recommend straying away from the more generic household paints if possible.  From experience, adhesion can be more of an issue with these paints.  For our “Lady Alice,” here’s the list of colors that I used:

Silver – AS-12 Bare-Metal Silver
Green – AS-12 Green (USAF)
Insignia White – AS-20 Insignia White (US Navy)
Black – MM Flat Black (FS 37038)
Insignia Red – MM Insignia Red (FS 31136)
Insignia Yellow – MM Insignia Yellow (FS 33538)

The Painting Process
Though it can be time consuming, I enjoy painting quite a bit.  It’s where the rubber meets the road and where you see all of the hard work and preparation come to fruition on a project.  It doesn’t have to be difficult and it isn’t with the right tools on hand.

The Right Stuff
We’ve talked about the right paints, but you also need the right tape.  Most all of the separation lines on “Lady Alice” are taped non-feathered edges.  For taping and obtaining that perfect hard separation line, 3M fine line tape is the only way to go in my book (I like the 1/16″ and 3/16″ or 1/4″ widths).  The key is that once it’s pressed down, the tape be burnished lightly to seal it.  You can visibly see the seal as the tape will change color (gets darker) with a good seal.  For other masking for protecting painted surfaces from overspray, I’m using the orange label painters tape; it’s the lightest tack so that we don’t run into the difficulty of possibly pulling up our polycrylic’d surface.  Lastly, in the case of the checkerboard nose, I cut vinyl squares (I have a vinyl cutter for making paint masks) for masking so I could ensure they were all the same size.

The Paint Application Process
Note that as we go into the painting portion, this is an extensive subject that I’ve abbreviated a bit here.  I intend on providing much more detailed painting articles and videos in the future discussing all aspects of painting and weathering.

As a general rule when painting, start with the light colors and move to the darker ones.  This is because lighter colors just simply don’t cover well over dark colors.  Approaching painting in this way assures that there won’t be any issues in the long run with heavy coats of paint to get the desired coverage and color.  There are however some colors that seem to be rather universal.  One of those is silver; it will usually cover anything and can be covered by most anything.  Also, the AS sprays have decent pigment to them and so in many cases lighter colors will in fact cover darker ones without too much hassle, but don’t ever assume that will be the case.

The key to a good paint job is not just a result of the act of painting, but rather the combination of the preparation, quality of the paint and application technique.  Proper preparation is paramount to a quality paint finish.  Also, I can’t stress enough about using quality paints.  Regarding the technique, the key to applying the paint is laying it down in long smooth passes across the surface.  It doesn’t have to go on terribly wet, in fact if it does go on too wet you’ll likely end up with horrible paint runs.  Take time in the spraying process.  Also, when airbrushing, the paint needs to be thinned sufficiently; the consistency of the paint dictates how well it sprays.  Too thick (not enough thinner) and it will spray on dry and rough whereas if it’s too thin, it will run and not have sufficient coverage.  It takes a little practice, so test spray on something else before spraying the model.

Spraying the Base Color
So, with all this in mind and approaching painting our P-51, I started with the silver as a base.  It was applied on the underside of the wings as well as the lower 3/4 of the fuselage.  Note that to cover up the exposed servos on the wings, I cut vinyl patches and placed them over prior to the heavy painting.


Checkerboard Nose and Striped Spinner
With the silver down, I moved onto the nose and spinner.  For the nose, the process consisted of masking off the painted area for the checkerboards and painting that whole area white.  With the white down, the area was painted yellow (this color must go over white for proper hue).  At the same time I painted the yellow, I also masked and painted the yellow rudder (again, spraying white first).

From there, the areas that remain yellow were masked off using vinyl squares cut on my vinyl cutter (they can easily be cut using masking tape, or frisket paper, etc.).  With the yellow protected, the exposed areas were then painted red.  Once dried, all of the tape was removed and the lovely checkerboards were revealed (one of my favorite features!).

The same process was performed for the spinner, however I used a white tamiya primer (formulated for plastic models) on the plastic spinner.  This gave really good adhesion of the paint to the spinner.  Also, since the primer was white, I was able to spray the yellow directly over it and then the red once the yellow was masked off appropriately.

Invasion Stripes
The invasion stripes were painted by masking off the entire area first on the underside of the wings and fuselage using fine line tape for the edges and the blue painters tape to protect everything else.  Once masked, the entire area was painted white.  Once dry, the white was masked off and the black was painted.  It’s important to take care in measuring to ensure that all of the edges remain parallel.  It’s easy to end up with not so parallel lines otherwise.  Note that when I sprayed the white on the underside, I also sprayed white on the upper wing (there’s a white stripe on the upper inboard wing panel).

And Green to Finish it off
With all of the lighter colors applied, we can wrap it all up by masking for and painting the green on the top of the fuselage and wings.  It is simply a matter of masking off all of the areas that aren’t green to protect them and then applying the green.  The care taken in the masking process will translate into sharp, clean paint lines.  It’s amazing how much applying the final color really transformed the model!

Exhaust Area
To finish off the paint, the last item of business was to paint the exhaust area and glue in the exhaust stacks.  This area on the airplane is natural metal on the full size airplane so I turned to my trusty Alclad II Dark Aluminum paint.  Alclad is perfrect for a quick and easy metallic/aluminium finish as it provides a very convincing natural metal finish (better than most) and it’s a lacquer, so it is very durable as well.  To paint the area, it was simply masked off and airbrushed (Alclad is airbrush only).


Applying Markings
Being a serious scale guy, I’m very particular when it comes to markings.  Mostly, it’s my goal to have them appear as much like paint as possible.  As a result I usually make all of my own markings (I actually find it fun).  I plan to do a more in depth write-up on this process, but quickly the tools I use to draw my markings are a combination of CAD, Corel Draw and Photoshop.  To apply, I use a combination of paint masks (cut on my vinyl cutter) and water slide decals (using laser decal paper).

For “Lady Alice” I wanted something that was quick and effective, so I focused moreso on using the vinyl for the lettering itself rather than paint masks.  I painted the vinyl as necessary (after scuffing with a scotch brite pad) and applied them for all of the lettering.  This included the lettering on the fuselage and rudder.  Note that I painted the lettering to the desired color before applying.

For the rest of the markings, I used waterslide decals with a laser printer.  The one drawback to printing your own decals is that unless you have a special printer, you can’t print white and so the decals are translucent.  This requires that the decals be placed over a light background to get the proper hue (there is white backed decal paper, but that has its own set of problems).  As a result, I’ve had to figure out workarounds so that the decals appear correctly.  To do this for our “Lady Alice,” I used painted vinyl as a backing to go behind all of the decals I applied (stars and bars and “Lady Alice” lettering).


For the stars and bars, the vinyl backing was cut to the exact shape of the full star and bar decal (not just the white areas).  This was so that when the decal was placed over it, the entire decal (both blue and white areas) were the correct color.  The vinyl backing was painted insignia white, placed down in the appropriate locations on the airplane and then the waterslide decal was applied over it.  It’s important to allow the decals to soak properly, otherwise if you force them off the backing too heavily, they may stretch.  To set the decal I used Micro Set and then once placed and dried off with a paper towel, I brushed Micro Sol over it to soften the decal and pull it down hard onto the surface.  Both of these are essential for obtaining clean water transfer decals with minimal “silvering” underneath.  Also, the finish the decals are applied to is best to be semi-gloss at a minimum.

The “Lady Alice” lettering was achieved in a similar manner by cutting the lettering in vinyl, painting it yellow and placing it onto the airplane.  The decal was the placed over the yellow lettering which completed the characteristic red outline and black shadow.

Clear Coat
To seal it all up, I sprayed a non-yellowing lacquer clear coat over the entire airframe.  A clear coat is a must whenever we’re painting as it evens out the finish which adds realism.  I can’t stress enough the use of a non-yellowing clear.  I’ve used the model master clear coats and though they work decently for electric models they yellow very quickly which if you have to make any repairs at some point makes paint matching difficult.

Exhaust Residue
Though Ken’s “Lady Alice” is about as clean as you can get for a full size Mustang, there is some exhaust staining that does occur (the airplane is flown every weekend).  So, to simulate that I airbrushed some exhaust residue using very thinned out black paint (thinned to the point it’s like dirty thinner).  I really wanted to use a dark brown color, but didn’t have anything in my stash of paints and opted not to make a run to the hobby store.  Regardless of color, the process is the same and the consistency of the paint is important.  It’s easier to add more using a very thin paint than to have to try to take away paint when it comes to this type of weathering which is why I choose to thin the paint down so much.

Chrome Prop
Lastly to button it all up, the prop needed to be chromed as this is a defining characteristic of “Lady Alice.”  To do that, I simply used chrome monokote trim sheet and applied it to the front of the prop blades.  I used a monokote iron on low heat to seal up the edges and then trimmed the excess with a sharp razor blade.  For that final polish, some Meguiar’s Gold Class Liquid Car Wax was used to put a final polish on all of the blades once the trim sheet was down.  The Meguiar’s is good stuff, I’ve even restored scratched canopies with it!


With all of the pieces completed, the final assembly was performed with much pomp and circumstance and…At last we have finished our “Lady Alice” transformation and she is ready to fly!  I hope the process I’ve explained here inspires you to give it a try on one of your own models.  It’s not difficult and the extra effort is always worth it.  Though the airplane looked good before we started this process, it looks so much better and more realistic after a refinish like this.  One thing to note that being EPO, it does have a tendency to “popcorn” in direct sunlight (especially on hot days).  So, keep that beauty in the shade when you’re not tearing up the skies! 🙂


For reference here are a few shots of the real deal. 🙂  These were taken the day I took that amazing ride with Ken in the airplane.  “Lady Alice” is an immaculately restored P-51 that is absolutely gorgeous!


Next time we’ll have a full flight review of the airplane (with video if all goes well of course!) along with some setup tips as well.  Until then, dust off those projects and get building.  See you at the field!

22 thoughts on “How to Refinish a Foam Warbird – Ep3 FMS RC P-51

    • Thanks! In terms of hours, that’s a good question. I would guess maybe 20-30 hours or so. It seems like the articles and videos took longer than the actual work on the airplane, lol! I was working mostly in the evenings on it a couple hours at a time.

  1. Awesome work Chris! I had not read EP-3 of the Lady Alice makeover, and your craftsmanship on the paint and especially the graphics is very impressive. I will appreciate this bird even more when I see it next time. I looks great in the air and on the ground. The look of the chrome prop is quite striking in the air when it catches the sun. it makes the plane look so real when combined with skilled, scale maneuvers.

    I thinking I will refinish the Freewing Stinger 90 and possibly the F-5 using the same techniques.


  2. killer instructional video! I too have a love/hate for EPO Warbirds. great light kits with easy repair time after rough hedge landings. But they don’t look scale light a balsa or fiberglass kit…
    I tried the spackling paste and prime/paint on a couple warbirds and PPS. Never thought of Poly before the primer.
    Questions: does the poly (water and/or oil based) hinder wing flex under high G turns? does the poly crack? Add too much weight?
    I know poly’s can get brittle. I have a Hotliner that had the covering start to bubble, so i pealed and decided to stain and poly. i know the shrink wraps can add lot of protection and strength.
    Thanks much and i love your work!

    • Thanks David! The poly adds a little rigidity to the airframe actually. I’ve not had too many issues with cracking, but the areas that have cracked are in the paint rather than the polycrylic. Obviously, if you overstress the airframe, I don’t know any finish that won’t crack. Regarding the weight, I had intended to weigh the airplane before and after and forgot to do the before weight. That being said, the weight gain I don’t think was too much, but there’s obviously some. I’ve found that these foam warbirds usually fly and track a little better with a little more weight behind them.

  3. Thanks for the snappy response time! I linked my hotliner on RCGroups showing the poly finish. ill let you know how it flies…
    i see a Ta-152 in your photo gallery. Is that the one from Esprit/FVK/Ducted Fans?? Very rare and gorgeous if so. I just picked one up finally after a very long hunt. Used and horribly built by previous owner. Im in the process of doing surgery on it and complete rebuild… If its the same one, what motor/prop/batt set up did you use? did you get it new back in the day? know of any more for sale? Ta-152 is my FAVORITE warbird. Currently on the market for another or parts.. and looking for a good Ta-152 Slope kit as well if you know.. cheers!

    • David, it is the fvk. I bought it new back in the early 2000s. Really cool model, but needed to be bigger based on what I did with it having retracts etc. I had a mega motor in it running 3cells and a 3blade prop. I don’t recall which motor off hand unfortunately. I’m not aware of any for sale at the moment but once in a long while they pop up on rcgroups. I hear you, the ta-152 is a killer warbird!

      • ya.. i pulled the retracts and keeping it light as possible. does your Ta-152 still survive? do you recall if you used 480 or 600 size motor?
        I’m surprised you don’t have a classified for your kits/parts that collecting dust cause i know you have warehouses of stuff! hahaha….

  4. Hi Chris,
    That is one great looking paint job. I watch all the video on this project. I’ve painted two of my plane but nothing fancy and just started getting into airbrush painting. I’d like to trying something different but have been afraid to do so when it comes to masking off area that have all ready been painted in fear of the paint being pull of the foam.

    I’ve seen your subjection as to what tape to use. How long should I wait for paint to dry before trying to remove the tape and moving on to the next area?

    I seen a paint scheme that I like to paint one of my jets but not really sure how I should go about it, wonder if I sent you a picture you could give me subjection ? It looks pretty basic.


    • Thanks! Shoot me an email through my contact form and I’ll happily take a look at the scheme. Regarding how long to wait before masking is really dependent on the paint. However, if you can handle the airplane without any tackiness from the paint, then it should be good for masking. Some paints cure longer than others, so don’t rush it either.

  5. Hey Chris, Amazing job! How would you go about preserving some of the panel lines, or would you say that would best be handled all with paint as part of the detailing process rather than trying to make anything “molded” look scale?


    • Thank you! In this case, I would recommend just applying the panel lines with pencil after paint and before the clear coat. You could also use a scribe to scribe them into the paint as well which would give you a more paneled look than just pencil. In all cases, it’ll require a fairly light touch so as not to puncture into the foam.

  6. Hello , I was frying to heat a bend in the foam wing flap and got it to hot, it bubbled a little , I put some filler on it and I am not sure what sandpaper to use to smothe it out. Can you tell me what grit to get?

  7. Hello everyone!

    This is a quick note to thank Chris for the guidance and information this series has provided me. Like many of you, I’ve watched these videos over and over again while attempting my own refinish and they couldn’t be more helpful.

    Disclaimer – this was my first attempt at trying any kind of refinish so instead of using a brand new model, I dusted off my very old, very beat up 1400mm T-28 Trojan for the try. (Version 1, about 7-8 years old)

    I’ve shared a few pics of the plane during the process and the near completed project here on Flickr:

    I went with a rather unique paint scheme – a Target Tug – which the T-28 was used for towards the end of its days in the Navy.

    A few things I learned:

    1. Watch the videos over and over. Chris is a great companion to have on in the background while tinkering.

    2. With an older plane that is scarred as heavily as this one was, I’d put even double the time in prep work next time. I took a couple shortcuts and a few problems emerging through the primer which was a clue.

    3. I discovered a real love for modelling as I went through this and even doing this one time will teach you a TON. Chris is 100% right when he says to not be afraid of making mistakes – and trust me, I made at least a couple dozen – as it just sets us up to do better next time. I already know several things I’d personally do differently.

    Anyways – not sure how often “The Geek” gets to see work he has inspired, but here you go dude – thanks for making your channel, this site, and sharing some secrets with us. Very awesome-o.


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